Kimono part -1

Kimono is a general term for the Japanese national costume for men as for women.
It consists essentially of a long dress open at the front which are crossed left over right and maintained by a fabric belt which is called "Obi".


The kimono, which succeeded the short-sleeved kosode became the standard costume. The kosode was worn as underwear since the Nara period and becomes a top dress in the sixteenth century.

Until the seventeenth century women fixed it with only a belt of flexible material and it was replaced by a hard belt equipped with a knot in the back. However, the courtesans continued to tighten their kimono with a soft belt knotted at the front.

All kimono are cut the same way, only decoration and fabrics differentiate them.

In general, men's kimono use dark colors, sometimes in the case of kimono, you can see the Kamon (family Crest) of their families. They are appointed with hakama pants and go over a large jacket named Haori.

In summer kimono made of wool and silk is usually replaced by a light cotton kimono, printed or dyed in indigo on white background, called yukata.

In winter, a large heavy cloth jacket named tanzen is brought to the house over the kimono

More explanation about the Yukata:

The Yukata (浴衣) is an unlined kimono-like garment for summer use, usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp.

Yukata are strictly informal, most often worn for festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are provided for the guests.

It is very light and very confortable in summer time.
It is not wear with the tabi only with the Zori or Getta.

Some Japanese vocabulary about clothing:

Obi (帯) is the sash worn with kimono.

Tabi (足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zōri or geta.

Geta (下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata.

Zōri (草履) are traditional sandals worn by both men and women, similar in design to flip-flops. Their formality ranges from strictly informal to fully formal. They are made of many materials, including cloth, leather, vinyl and woven grass, and can be highly decorated or very simple.



Do you know that there is many types of Kimono?

Today I just explained the basic knowledge about Kimono and the more simplest one the Yukata.

Next Time I talk Kimono...I will tell you more about all of them and their differences.

Juuni-hitoe 12 layers Kimono

The Juunihitoe (十二単衣, juunihitoe) is an extremely sophisticated kimono that was only worn by court-ladies in Japan. Juunihitoe means literally "twelve-layer robe".
In the Heian era we start to see the Juunihitoe.




The various layers of the Juunihitoe are silk garments. Most inner garment is made of white silk, followed by other layers which have various names, which are finally closed off by a final layer or coat. Motion in such a robe could be not really easy due to its total weight.

The arrangements of the layers and their colors were a good indication of what taste and what rank the lady had. The ladies was sometimes using the Juunihitoe as a pajama, but do not worry they were getting some layers off for the night.

The Trend to keep with the Juunihitoe was to wear the hair long and cut only on the sides you can see also on some picture that few ladies was wearing their hair tied in the back.











Today… you can look at Juunihitoe in Museum in Japan or in Movies. There is only the Imperial family now that uses it for very special occasion. You can understand that the production of it is very low and practically died out now. So the Juunihitoe have acquired a priceless title in Japanese clothing.















The Layers of the Juunihitoe

The undergarments: Usually a two-piece cotton or silk garment.

Kosode: A short silk red or white robe of ankle or lower calf length.
Hakama: A red pleated split skirt which can also be worn by men.
Hitoe: A light white, red or blue unlined robe.
Uchigi: A series of brightly coloured unlined robes that create a layered effect.
Uchiginu: A beaten scarlet silk robe worn as a stiffener and support for the outer robes.
Uwagi: A patterned woven and decorated silk robe than is shorter and narrower than the Uchiginu.
Karaginu: A waist length Chinese style jacket.









Customs of the ladies of the court:

Because it was not allowed to a lady to speak directly to men, the court ladies had fans as an accessory to hiding behind to shield her from inquiring looks and speak.
You see the fan was not only an innocent accessory to cool down the ladies. Yes it was used for it because the Juunihitoe was very hot to wear but it was playing a role of discretion in their communication. Maybe you have seen in some Japanese movies a court lady using her sleeve as a shield when she was talking to an outsider man. It was the practice of this time



The Juuni-hitoe was also called:
Karaginu no Shouzoku or Nyoubou Shouzoku or Shouzoku