Kimono - Part 2 Type of Kimono

Do you know that there is many types of Kimono?

For women we have:

Furisode
Who is wearing a Furisode ?
This one is for young unmarried women.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
The sleeves of Furisode have an average between 39 and 42 inches (1,100 mm) in length. In fact, there are three lengths possible the oburisode that have a length of 105 cm, the chuuburisode have a length of 90 cm and the kofurisode is 75 cm length at last.
In the past, Furisode was black and with time it becomes such a beautiful and colourful design. It is richly design kimono.

When to wear it?
They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (seijin shiki).
At a wedding, unmarried female relatives of the bride are wearing it.
This Kimono is for all formal and ceremonial occasion of the unmarried women.

Hōmongi
Who is wearing a Hōmongi?
Worn by both married and unmarried women

What is typical difference with other kimono?
This one is characterized by patterns that flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves and a little more “Chic” then other Kimono (Tsukesage).

When to wear it?
At a weddings and receptions they may also be worn to formal parties.

Iromuji

Who is wearing an Iromuji?
It is worn by married and unmarried women.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
Only one color kimono (monochrome) and the material making of this kimono is satin ( mon rinzu), crepe (chirimen) or tsumugi.

When to wear it?
Those kimono are worn to do Tea ceremonies.


Komon
Who is wearing a Komon?
It is worn by married and unmarried women.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
This Kimono has a small and repeated pattern throughout the garment.

When to wear it?
It is to wear all around. To make it more formal for going out to restaurant or to go for a diner you put a more formal obi.

Edo komon
Who is wearing a Edo Komon?
It is worn by married and unmarried women.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
This is komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. It can be decorated with some Kamon too.

When to wear it?
May be worn as visiting wear

Mofuku
Who is wearing a Mofuku?

The completely black kit is reserved for family and others that are close to the deceased.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
The mofuku is a formal garment intended for mourning. It is made of pitch black silk, without any embellishment other than the 5 kamon.

All accessories are also black.
White being symbolic of death in Japan, the mofuku was made formerly of white. These days, the modern mofuku is now a black garment, to contrast with the white kimono of the dead

When to wear it?
The mofuku is worn on the days of the wake, funeral, and cremation of the deceased in a Buddhist funeral ceremony.

Due to white being symbolic of death in Japan, the mofuku was formerly a white garment; however, the modern mofuku is now a black garment, to contrast with the white kimono of the dead.


Tomesode
Iro Tomesode
Who is wearing an Iro Tomesode?
It is worn by married and unmarried women.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
It is a single-color kimono, patterned only below the waistline.
An Iro tomesode may have three or five kamon.

When to wear it?
Iro Tomesode are slightly less formal than Kuro Tomesode so it worn for close relatives of the bride and groom at weddings.

Kuro Tomesode
Who is wearing an Kuro Tomesode?
It is worn by married.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
It is a black kimono patterned only below the waistline.
Kuro Tomesode usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and on the back of the kimono. The length of the sleeves are more shorter then a formal Furisode and opening of the sleeves are smaller too.

When to wear it?
They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at weddings.

Tsukesage
Who is wearing a Tsukesage?
It is worn by married.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
It is more modest patterns that cover a smaller area under the waist.

When to wear it?
It is worn to visiting, school entrance, ceremony, parties

Uchikake
Who is wearing a Uchikake?
Back in time this kimono was worn by ladies of warrior or noble families.
In our days it is only worn by Japanese bridal ceremony.

What is typical difference with other kimono?

Uchikake is a highly formal kimono.
The Uchikake is supposed to be worn otherwise then the actual kimono and obi, it is taken as a sort of coat now. You can understand that we never tie the obi around the Uchikake. It is meant to trail along the floor. The color is all white or red.

When to wear it?
It is Japanese bridal ceremony costume.

Shiromuku
Who is wearing a Shiromuku?
A bride.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
It is a whole white kimono that signify the pure intention of the bride to fit into her husband’s family.

When to wear it?
It is Japanese bridal ceremony costume.


Susohiki / Hikizuri
Who is wearing a Susohiki / Hikizuri?
Maiko (apprentice geisha), Geisha or stage performer.

What is typical difference with other kimono?
It is a longer kimono then a traditional one. The skirt of is supposed to trail along the floor. Susohiki literally means "trail the skirt". The length of such a kimono can be 2 m long. That’s why Geisha and young Maiko are lifting up their Kimono while walking in the streets.

Here is a chart to help you with all this:

Kimono	Formality	Occasion
Black Tomesode Uchikake	Ceremonial	Official function Wedding Funeral
Tomesode Furisode IroMuji Edo Komon Tsukesage Homongi	Formal	Wedding Formal Reception Formal Parties
Edo Komon Tsukesage Iromuji Komon	Visiting	Visiting School Entrance Ceremony Parties
Komon Tsumugi	In Town	Shopping Meeting friends Traveling

I hope you enjoy this reading.
Next post on Kimono will be Part 3 – Parts of a Kimono and accessories.

Kimono part -1

Kimono is a general term for the Japanese national costume for men as for women.
It consists essentially of a long dress open at the front which are crossed left over right and maintained by a fabric belt which is called "Obi".


The kimono, which succeeded the short-sleeved kosode became the standard costume. The kosode was worn as underwear since the Nara period and becomes a top dress in the sixteenth century.

Until the seventeenth century women fixed it with only a belt of flexible material and it was replaced by a hard belt equipped with a knot in the back. However, the courtesans continued to tighten their kimono with a soft belt knotted at the front.

All kimono are cut the same way, only decoration and fabrics differentiate them.

In general, men's kimono use dark colors, sometimes in the case of kimono, you can see the Kamon (family Crest) of their families. They are appointed with hakama pants and go over a large jacket named Haori.

In summer kimono made of wool and silk is usually replaced by a light cotton kimono, printed or dyed in indigo on white background, called yukata.

In winter, a large heavy cloth jacket named tanzen is brought to the house over the kimono

More explanation about the Yukata:

The Yukata (浴衣) is an unlined kimono-like garment for summer use, usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp.

Yukata are strictly informal, most often worn for festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen (hot spring) resorts, where they are provided for the guests.

It is very light and very confortable in summer time.
It is not wear with the tabi only with the Zori or Getta.

Some Japanese vocabulary about clothing:

Obi (帯) is the sash worn with kimono.

Tabi (足袋) are ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zōri or geta.

Geta (下駄) are wooden sandals worn by men and women with yukata.

Zōri (草履) are traditional sandals worn by both men and women, similar in design to flip-flops. Their formality ranges from strictly informal to fully formal. They are made of many materials, including cloth, leather, vinyl and woven grass, and can be highly decorated or very simple.



Do you know that there is many types of Kimono?

Today I just explained the basic knowledge about Kimono and the more simplest one the Yukata.

Next Time I talk Kimono...I will tell you more about all of them and their differences.

Juuni-hitoe 12 layers Kimono

The Juunihitoe (十二単衣, juunihitoe) is an extremely sophisticated kimono that was only worn by court-ladies in Japan. Juunihitoe means literally "twelve-layer robe".
In the Heian era we start to see the Juunihitoe.




The various layers of the Juunihitoe are silk garments. Most inner garment is made of white silk, followed by other layers which have various names, which are finally closed off by a final layer or coat. Motion in such a robe could be not really easy due to its total weight.

The arrangements of the layers and their colors were a good indication of what taste and what rank the lady had. The ladies was sometimes using the Juunihitoe as a pajama, but do not worry they were getting some layers off for the night.

The Trend to keep with the Juunihitoe was to wear the hair long and cut only on the sides you can see also on some picture that few ladies was wearing their hair tied in the back.











Today… you can look at Juunihitoe in Museum in Japan or in Movies. There is only the Imperial family now that uses it for very special occasion. You can understand that the production of it is very low and practically died out now. So the Juunihitoe have acquired a priceless title in Japanese clothing.















The Layers of the Juunihitoe

The undergarments: Usually a two-piece cotton or silk garment.

Kosode: A short silk red or white robe of ankle or lower calf length.
Hakama: A red pleated split skirt which can also be worn by men.
Hitoe: A light white, red or blue unlined robe.
Uchigi: A series of brightly coloured unlined robes that create a layered effect.
Uchiginu: A beaten scarlet silk robe worn as a stiffener and support for the outer robes.
Uwagi: A patterned woven and decorated silk robe than is shorter and narrower than the Uchiginu.
Karaginu: A waist length Chinese style jacket.









Customs of the ladies of the court:

Because it was not allowed to a lady to speak directly to men, the court ladies had fans as an accessory to hiding behind to shield her from inquiring looks and speak.
You see the fan was not only an innocent accessory to cool down the ladies. Yes it was used for it because the Juunihitoe was very hot to wear but it was playing a role of discretion in their communication. Maybe you have seen in some Japanese movies a court lady using her sleeve as a shield when she was talking to an outsider man. It was the practice of this time



The Juuni-hitoe was also called:
Karaginu no Shouzoku or Nyoubou Shouzoku or Shouzoku